“This portfolio is my vision of America now. Big. Vast. Diverse. Filled with every kind of person, from ‘Bon Ton’ to Club Kids. I want to show the freedom of expression, strong point of view, and unique style of the Americans I love and respect.” –Riccardo Tisci
Issue 06 of Style.com/Print explores how the fashion world has embraced America as its muse, both inspiring and dominating the global runways this season.
The Dream Team
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci may be Italian by birth, but his dreams feel decidedly American. For this issue’s portrait shoot, Tisci assembled—and styled—a diverse group of friends who represent “America” to him. In the article he speaks candidly about the country’s allure: “I was fascinated by the freedom of expression. And, in a strange way, I always looked at home.” The designer also tells Tim Blanks about his recent collaboration with the ever-iconic Nike Air Force 1: “It’s important I show that I can do other things, but people who know my style are always going to find the sweatshirt, the T-shirt. That’s why I did Nike. And I didn’t want it to be a niche collaboration. I wanted it for everyone.” Photographs by Angelo Pennetta. Styling by Riccardo Tisci.
Burning Down the House
American fashion empires were once built on the epic and grandiose, but Proenza Schouler is finding worldwide success by turning that notion on its head. Following a retrospective of their work at Bon Marché during Paris Fashion Week, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez tell Maya Singer how they “pull from the underbelly of Americana—to find these pockets of the culture that aren’t chic and make them fashion.” Photographs by Roe Ethridge. Styling by Marie Chaix.
Ma Vida Chola
“The country evolves. And so do its archetypes,” writes Sadie Stein in this photo portfolio that featuring an archetype that’s becoming increasingly prominent in our cultural imagination: the chola. From Rihanna’s Halloween costume to a handful of recent designer collections, the chola style has emerged from marginalization; but where does the line between homage and exploitation get blurred? Photographs by Nick Haymes
Is Jeremy Scott Serious?
He may have a fancy new job as the creative director of Moschino, but that doesn’t mean L.A.’s ambassador to Milan is going to stop having fun. Style Bubble’s Susie Lau goes behind the scenes with fashion’s most whimsical designer and pop culture devotee: “My brain thinks in icons and working with things that universally bring people into it. I’m never going to be inspired by some obscure film, which isn’t to say I don’t enjoy that sort of thing. I just want to share my work with everyone.” Photographs by Pierpaolo Ferrari
The Top 10 Most Viewed Shows
Wondering which collections were the most popular on Style.com during the Fall 2014 season? A ranking of the shows our readers clicked most.
Revolution at Marc by Marc Jacobs!
Tim Blanks goes behind the scenes with Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller as the dynamic duo puts their stamp on Marc by Marc Jacobs. Says Bartley of the label: “It’s becoming an identity again. I remember the first couple of Marc by Marc collections felt tough and cool, and you wanted to be that person. So we toughened it up with more tailoring and a graphic manga femininity, as opposed to something girly.” Photographs by Kava Gorna
Reed Krakoff bought his label from Coach for $50 million. Now he’s out to prove that he can build the next great American luxury brand on his own. He tells Katharine Zarrella: “I grew up with all these great American brands, and I worked for a lot of them, like Ralph Lauren. But my goal has never been to mimic what they did. It was to absorb it, live through it, and try and come up with the next idea of what is American luxury.” Photographs by Reed Krakoff
Other issue highlights: The top 10 collections of the Fall 2014 season, as ranked by our editors; Jeremy Lewis takes a highly subjective look back at the A-Zs of American fashion; meet the crew at Dover Street Market; Arizona Muse speaks up for London; our editors’ Style Notes from New York, London, Milan, and Paris; Tommy Ton crowns his new crop of style crushes from the fall shows; Backstage Beauty breaks the rules with glitter, cornrows, and neon dye jobs; and more.